Thanks to the corn farmers and the corn gods

Chef Molly Beverly, October 2010

 
Corn Sprouts,

"And sure it was God's good providence that we found this corne for we know not how else we should have done."
Pilgrim Governor, William Bradford

We wouldn’t have Thanksgiving without corn because the pilgrims wouldn’t have survived.  More than half of them died the first winter. Then Squanto, a local Indian who had already traveled to England and Spain and spoke English, taught them how to hunt, fish and especially how to grow sustaining corn. Unlike other grains, corn grows huge and gives a gigantic return. Compare a cob of corn to a head of wheat.

"There was a great deal of tilled land sowed with a sort of beans and sort of grain they called 'Mahiz' which was well tasted, baked or dried or made into flour."
Christopher Columbus, wrote in his journal one day after he landed in Cuba, November 4, 1492

By the time Columbus landed, corn grew all over the Americas in a multitude of colors and varieties (including popcorn). It was the backbone of the Aztec, Mayan, and Incan civilizations and a staple for every North American tribe from Arizona to the Atlantic Coast. Most of these civilizations had creation myths centered on corn. Many worshiped corn deities.

The wild ancestor of corn is lost in the fog of prehistoric time. Even after genetic testing and 21st century research the parent plant is unknown. Corn selection began with the origins of human agriculture around 10,000 years ago. At one cave in Mexico, a sequence of cobs has been found, increasing in length from a half inch to eight inches long. A plant with a large ear and many seeds close together cannot plant itself. For the plant to grow humans had to separate the seed and plant them some distance apart. The new corn plant ended up being dependent on humans just as we now depend on corn, call it co-evolutionary interdependence.

Here’s what I’m cooking up as a Thanksgiving offering to the corn gods and to my corn farmer husband in appreciation for an abundant harvest of wonderful sweet corn.

SUCCOTASH

Some version of this could have been served at the first Thanksgiving. From the Narragansett word msíckquatash meaning boiled whole corn kernels.
Serves 4-6
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup milk
2 cups fresh or frozen lima beans
2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
Salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in a saucepan.  Add lima beans and cook until tender. Add corn, salt and pepper and gently cook until corn is heated through, about 5 minutes.

Cajun Corn and Onions: MAQUECHOU (MOCK-SHOE)

A New Orleans tradition. Serves 4-62 tablespoons butter
1 medium size onion, chopped
1/4 bell pepper, chopped 

4 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 fresh tomatoes, chopped 

salt and pepper to taste
water as needed 



Melt the butter in a heavy iron pot. Add the onions and bell pepper and sauté until wilted. Add corn. Cook and stir over medium heat for about five minutes. Add tomatoes and season to taste. 
Cover and simmer for twenty minutes.  Stir occasionally. If mixture becomes too dry, add water.

CORN FRITTERS

Incredible. Serves 4
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2 cups cut corn, fresh or frozen
1 cup all purpose flour
1/4 cup milk
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
vegetable oil for frying

Mix eggs, corn, flour, milk, salt and baking powder together.  In a large skillet heat 1/4 inch of oil to 350 degrees*. Drop fritter mixture in large spoonfuls into pan and fry on each side until golden. Drain on paper towels.

*Buy a thermometer.  You’ll use it a lot.

CORN ENCHILADAS (The corn gods rejoice!)

Thinking about writing this story, I came up with this recipe that uses two kinds of corn and tames the fiery chilies that showed up in my garden. Makes 1 dozen

6 fresh red or green chilies, Anaheim or Ancho (or equivalent canned)  
¼ cup butter
3 Tablespoons all purpose flour
1 teaspoon cumin seed
3 cups milk
salt to taste
3 cups corn kernels
1 cup finely minced onion
10 ounces grated cheddar or jack cheese
12 corn tortillas
½ cup vegetable oil or as needed for frying
½ cup finely cut green onions
2 ounces grated cheddar or jack cheese
9X13 inch baking pan

ROAST CHILIES whole over a gas burner or under a broiler.  Turn often until they are blistered and browned all over.  Set aside.  When cooled, remove stems and seeds and chop. (It they’re like my chilies, wear gloves and don’t touch your face.)
SAUCE: Melt butter in a skillet.  Add flour and cumin and stir for a few minutes.  Add milk and whisk until mixture comes to a boil and thickens.  Add chilies and salt to taste.  Add more milk if necessary for a pourable sauce consistency.  Set aside.
FILLING: Mix together corn kernels, onion, and 10 ounces of grated cheese.
TORTILLAS: Heat ¼ inch of oil in a small skillet.  Fry tortillas, one at a time until they sizzle but are still soft. Place on paper towels to drain.

FINISHING: Cover the bottom of the pan with a thin layer of sauce.  Take one tortilla and place corn mixture across center.  Roll it up and place in pan. Repeat with all tortillas.  Pour remaining sauce over top to cover and sprinkle with remaining cheese.  Place in a 350 degree oven for 25 minutes, until heated through.  Sprinkle with green onions before serving.

Contact Information

Chef Molly Beverly

Food Services Director


Chef Mark Montague

Café Manager


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928-350-1400 (office)

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